واکاوی پوشاک بانوان ترکمن در تحلیل خود و دیگری از منظر یوری لوتمان

نوع مقاله : مقاله پژوهشی

نویسندگان

1 دانشجوی پژوهش هنر، گروه پژوهش هنر، واحد بین المللی کیش، دانشگاه آزاد اسلامی، کیش، ایران

2 استاد، گروه پژوهش هنر، دانشگاه الزهرا، تهران، ایران

3 استاد، گروه طراحی پارچه و لباس، دانشکده هنر و معماری، دانشگاه آزاد اسلامی واحد یزد، یزد، ایران

4 استادیار، گروه گرافیک، دانشکده هنر و معماری، دانشگاه آزاد اسلامی واحد شبستر، آذربایجان شرقی، ایران.

چکیده

استان گلستان به‌علت وجود اقوام متعدد، دارای بار فرهنگیِ غنی می‌باشد. زنان کارآفرین ترکمن، از طریق تولید هنرشان مانند بافت پارچه‌های دستباف، تولید فرش، دوخت سوزن‌دوزی، ساخت زیورآلات سنتی و دست‌ساز در کشورهایی از جمله چین، ترکیه، آلمان، ایتالیا در نمایشگاه‌ها شرکت کرده و همین حضور گسترده و مداوم، منجر به تغییر بخش مهمی از پوشاک آنها شده است. هدف از این پژوهش یافتن پاسخ به این پرسش است که از منظر نشانه‌شناسی فرهنگی، بازنمایی فرهنگ «خود» و فرهنگ «دیگری» در نظام پوشاک زنان ترکمن چگونه است؟ روش پژوهش کیفی توصیفی- تحلیلی است و در تجزیه اطلاعات از رویکرد نشانه-شناسی یوری لوتمان استفاده شده است. نظام نشانه‌‌ای تلاش دارد تا با تحلیل خود و دیگری عناصر تغییرپذیری و اصلاح زندگی از عشیره‌ای به شهرنشینی را در دنیای مدرن بررسی و مطالعه نماید. نتایج حاصل از پژوهش نشان می‌دهد می‌باشد که تحولات اجتماعی، اقتصادی، فرهنگی و سیاسی، به عنوان محرک اصلی جریان تحولات پوشاک در بین ترکمن‌ها نقش بسیار موثری را ایفا نموده است. داد و ستد، تکنولوژی، شبکه‌های اجتماعی و گسترش شهرنشینی از عوامل مهم قدرت فرهنگی هستند. که منجر به ایجاد زمینه ورود «دیگری فرهنگی» و بسترساز تحول فرهنگی بوده و در نهایت باعث تغییر رمزگان‌های فرهنگ اقوام گشته و به تبع آن نظام پوشاک را نیز متحول کرده است. در نهایت طبقه فرادست نسبت به طبقه فرودست تغییر از درون را به‌علت تغییر سبک زندگی راحتتر پذیرفته‌اند.

کلیدواژه‌ها

موضوعات


عنوان مقاله [English]

Analyzing Turkmen Women's Clothing In Her Own Analysis And another's From the Perspective of Yuri Lutman

نویسندگان [English]

  • Samaneh Shahrinezhad 1
  • Abolghasem Dadvar 2
  • Abolfazl Davoudi Roknabadi 3
  • Toradj Fashaknski 4
1 Ph.D Student Department of Research Art, Ki.C., Islamic Azad University, Kish,, Iran
2 Professor of Art Research Department, Al-Zahra University, Tehran, Iran
3 Professor, Department of Textile and Clothing Design, Faculty of Art and Architecture, Islamic Azad University, Yazd Branch, Yazd, Iran.
4 Assistant Professor, Department of Graphic Arts, Faculty of Art and Architecture, Islamic Azad University, Shabestar Branch, East Azerbaijan, Iran.
چکیده [English]

Golestan province has a rich cultural heritage due to the presence of many ethnic groups. Turkmen women entrepreneurs have participated in exhibitions in countries such as China, Turkey, Germany, and Italy through their art production, such as weaving hand-woven fabrics, producing carpets, sewing and embroidery, and making traditional and handmade jewelry. This widespread and continuous presence has led to a significant change in their clothing. The purpose of this research is to find an answer to the question of how, from the perspective of cultural semiotics, the culture of "the self" and the culture of "the other" are represented in the clothing system of Turkmen women. The qualitative research method is descriptive-analytical, and Yuri Lotman's semiotic approach was used in analyzing the information. The semiotic system attempts to examine and study the elements of variability and modification of life from tribal to urban in the modern world by analyzing the self and the other. The results of the research show that social, economic, cultural, and political changes have played a very effective role as the main drivers of clothing changes among Turkmens. Trade, technology, social networks and the expansion of urbanization are important factors of cultural power. Which has led to the creation of the ground for the entry of "cultural otherness" and the creation of a platform for cultural transformation and has ultimately changed the cultural codes of the ethnic groups and consequently has also transformed the clothing system. Ultimately, the upper class has accepted the change from within more easily than the lower class due to the change in lifestyle.

کلیدواژه‌ها [English]

  • "Clothing"."Turkmen Women clothing"
  • "Cultural Semiotics'
  • 'Yuri Lotman'

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